It’s one of the most important jobs never applied for. Unelected, yet inextricable from politics; constantly visible on the world stage, but rarely the one behind the microphone — for all its glamour, the first lady of the United States is a role of unsolicited duty, often bringing with it intense public scrutiny, including over what they wear.

In normal times, designers would queue up to work with the incoming First Lady to secure their speck of posterity. The gown Melania Trump wears to the President’s inaugural ball on Monday evening for instance,